Merry Christmas and Happy 2008
Bon Nadal i Felic Any Nou
Felices Fiestas y Prospero 2008
Diana, Manel, Ella i Blanche XXX
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Monday, December 24, 2007
Saturday, December 15, 2007
Tana
Amb les motxiles buides i la roba a l'armari pensavem que estariem com a casa i la veritat es que els dies que portem a Tana ens sentim gairebe com a casa. O sigui que l'Ella i la Blanche tenen ocasio de barallar-se de tant en tant i nosaltres de fer de pares ignorant les seves disputes. Barallar-se de fet es una exageracio, alguna petita discussio sobre qui deixa que a qui i es clar, com que el que voldrien portar esta brut... Em penso que als 4 ens agradaria poder portar alguna cosa que no tenim aqui ja que malgrat haver fet alguna compra tant a l'Argentina com a Xile, Australia i a la Mumbai, la roba que portem comenca a estar aburrida i gastada. A mes des que varem deixar America del Sud, fa molta calor i no cal posar-se gaire coses... la mateixa samarreta o l'altra i uns shorts o uns altres (qui en te dos parells) es repeteixen. Aqui la terra es molt vermella i hi ha bastanta pols, per tant ja ens hem acostumat a anar un xic empolsegats, encara que mantenim l'habit de fer tantes dutxes com podem -encara que gastant tant poca aigua com ens es possible. Seguint amb la primavera constant, la meva al.lergia es dispara de tant en tant i empipo als altres amb grans dosis d'esternuts, i encara que ens queden algunes anthistaminiques, no sempre sembla que funcionin, i es clar la contaminacio de la ciutat no hi ajuda gens.
Seguim patint de les males conexions a internet i a vegades es un suplici fins enviar un correu i tot, ens ha arribat a caldre fins una hora, per tant de moment no estem penjant fotos i les nostres session es limiten al que podem aconseguir. Des que tenim telefon les noies han rebut alguna trucada, que sempre les alegra i nosaltres un missatge -gracies Carlos!
We thought that emptying our backpacks into the cupboard would help us feel at home and indded it had some effect. The girls immediately had the occasional argument about who wears what and whose is it, as often what they want to wear is either dirty or being washed... As good parents we try to ignore such discussions. In fact I think at times we could all do with different clothes, some that aren't with us, as despite some shopping we did both in Argentina, Chile, Australia and Mumbai, the clothes we have with us have started to get old and we are bored with them. Not to mention that the last few weeks it has been hot and one ends up having to wear the same t-shirt or shorts all too often. The soil here is red and dusty and it doesn't help staying clean, however we still try to have daily showers, even if using as little water as possible. As it seems to be always spring, my allergy is often bothering me and although I still have some pills left, they do not always have much of an effect, so the girls are constantly enduring my sneezing sessions; of course the city pollution contributes a lot to it.
We continue to struggle with internet as access is far from ideal and we have been unable to post pictures for a while, some times a simple email can take an hour! Since we've got the mobile the girls have received some calls which they really enjoyed receiving and we had one text -thanks Carlos!
Seguim patint de les males conexions a internet i a vegades es un suplici fins enviar un correu i tot, ens ha arribat a caldre fins una hora, per tant de moment no estem penjant fotos i les nostres session es limiten al que podem aconseguir. Des que tenim telefon les noies han rebut alguna trucada, que sempre les alegra i nosaltres un missatge -gracies Carlos!
We thought that emptying our backpacks into the cupboard would help us feel at home and indded it had some effect. The girls immediately had the occasional argument about who wears what and whose is it, as often what they want to wear is either dirty or being washed... As good parents we try to ignore such discussions. In fact I think at times we could all do with different clothes, some that aren't with us, as despite some shopping we did both in Argentina, Chile, Australia and Mumbai, the clothes we have with us have started to get old and we are bored with them. Not to mention that the last few weeks it has been hot and one ends up having to wear the same t-shirt or shorts all too often. The soil here is red and dusty and it doesn't help staying clean, however we still try to have daily showers, even if using as little water as possible. As it seems to be always spring, my allergy is often bothering me and although I still have some pills left, they do not always have much of an effect, so the girls are constantly enduring my sneezing sessions; of course the city pollution contributes a lot to it.
We continue to struggle with internet as access is far from ideal and we have been unable to post pictures for a while, some times a simple email can take an hour! Since we've got the mobile the girls have received some calls which they really enjoyed receiving and we had one text -thanks Carlos!
Saturday, December 8, 2007
Mumbai, Mauritius, Madagascar, a 3 day journey
When we left Darwin little did we know how long it would take us to reach our destination in Madagascar. It all seemed to go well until we were ready to board the flight from Mumbai to Mauritius late at night when after some inquiries we realized our flight had been cancelled. Fortunately Air Mauritius had organized an hotel for us and after stopping a local cab outside the terminal, we were on our way to a 5 star hotel. The next day we took off early afternoon hoping to still make a connection in Maurice, however once we reached our first stop there were no more flights to Madagascar until the next day in the afternoon. Again AM had organised a hotel for us and this time even a proper transfer. As Mauritius is a "luxury" holiday place, we ended up in a Hilton on the beach resort where they greet guests with drinks and all the modern comforts one can imagine were at our disposal... no complaints there. Finally we got to Antananarivo on the 3rd day and were welcomed by Yamuna's Manolo at the airport. We have only been here a couple of days and it already feels we have been here a long time thanks to the extraordinary welcome we have received from everyone here.
By the way, as it will soon be Christmas and we will be here for a while we've got ourselves a local mobile number (+261325195728) in case anyone has the urge to call any of us...
Al marxar de Darwin sabiem que el viatge seria llarg pero mai varem inaginar que tant. Tot havia anat be fins a Mumbai, pero al anar a agafar el vol cap a les Maurici ja tard a la nit varem descobrir que l'havien anul.lat. Afortunadament Air Mauritus ens havia reservat un bon hotel i despres de trobar un taxi varem poder dormir comodament. L'endema el vol va sortir finalment a primera hora de la tarda pero al arribibar a les Maurici ja no hi havia vols cap a Madagascar. De nou AM s'havia ocuptat de buscar-nos hotel, aquest cop ens portaren a un Hilton a la platja on reben els hostes amb begudes i fent sonar el gong i posen totes les comoditats possibles al teu servei. Despres de disfrutar de l'estada i els serveis l'endema a mitja tarda varem marxar cap a Antananarivo, on ens esperava el Manolo de Yamuna a l'aeroport. Encara que nomes portem dos dies aqui, gracies a la benvinguda que ens estan donant sembla que ja faci molt mes que hi som.
Per cert, com que s'acosta Nadal i serem aqui un temps hem adauirit un mobil local (+261325195728) per si algu vol contactar amb nosaltres.
By the way, as it will soon be Christmas and we will be here for a while we've got ourselves a local mobile number (+261325195728) in case anyone has the urge to call any of us...
Al marxar de Darwin sabiem que el viatge seria llarg pero mai varem inaginar que tant. Tot havia anat be fins a Mumbai, pero al anar a agafar el vol cap a les Maurici ja tard a la nit varem descobrir que l'havien anul.lat. Afortunadament Air Mauritus ens havia reservat un bon hotel i despres de trobar un taxi varem poder dormir comodament. L'endema el vol va sortir finalment a primera hora de la tarda pero al arribibar a les Maurici ja no hi havia vols cap a Madagascar. De nou AM s'havia ocuptat de buscar-nos hotel, aquest cop ens portaren a un Hilton a la platja on reben els hostes amb begudes i fent sonar el gong i posen totes les comoditats possibles al teu servei. Despres de disfrutar de l'estada i els serveis l'endema a mitja tarda varem marxar cap a Antananarivo, on ens esperava el Manolo de Yamuna a l'aeroport. Encara que nomes portem dos dies aqui, gracies a la benvinguda que ens estan donant sembla que ja faci molt mes que hi som.
Per cert, com que s'acosta Nadal i serem aqui un temps hem adauirit un mobil local (+261325195728) per si algu vol contactar amb nosaltres.
Monday, December 3, 2007
Salam Mumbai
Pels que seguiu la nostra ruta, ahir a migdia varem marxar de Darwin cami de Madagascar. El primer vol en va portar a l'India, a Mumbai, on varem arribar ja tard al vespre. El viatge en taxi cap a l'hostal va ser al.lucinant, un paseig per barris molt diversos veient com vibrava la ciutat, focs d'articifi, claxons de cotxes i motos, olors ben variades i tantes altres sensacions ens varen rebre agradablement. Aquest mati hem descobert una mica d'aquesta metropolis superpoblada, i fins hem trobat un bon restaurant local on degustar les especialitats a l'hora del migdia a la vegada que ho feien els treballadors del barri. Aquest vespre seguim el nostra cami cap a Antananarivo, on esperem arribar a mig mati de dimecres. D'entrada ens costara marxar tan rapidament despres del primer contacte amb l'India, pero ens consola saber que a finals de Gener tornarem per passar-hi unes quantes setmanes...
For those of you who are following our route, yesterday we left Darwin en route for Madagascar. The first leg took us as far as Mumbai where we arrived last night. The journey to the hostel by taxi was incredible; a journey through various, different districts where we saw the city alive at night, fireworks, horns, motorbikes, many smells and other sensations .... This morning we've been discovering this metropolis a little more and we even found a great local restaurant to eat where the local workers were enjoying their lunch. Tonight we continue on to Madagascar where we arrive tomorrow mid-morning. It's a shame to be leaving here so quickly but we'll be back at the end of January and we'll be able to spend a few weeks here ....
For those of you who are following our route, yesterday we left Darwin en route for Madagascar. The first leg took us as far as Mumbai where we arrived last night. The journey to the hostel by taxi was incredible; a journey through various, different districts where we saw the city alive at night, fireworks, horns, motorbikes, many smells and other sensations .... This morning we've been discovering this metropolis a little more and we even found a great local restaurant to eat where the local workers were enjoying their lunch. Tonight we continue on to Madagascar where we arrive tomorrow mid-morning. It's a shame to be leaving here so quickly but we'll be back at the end of January and we'll be able to spend a few weeks here ....
Friday, November 23, 2007
Visiting Alice
Very quickly, it seems, we are reaching the end of our stay in Australia. For the past week we have been spending time with Centralians in and around Alice Springs, a 'bonza town', as described by Neville Shute. We picked up another campervan for this leg of our tour and headed south into the desert. It was so hot on that first day that when we stopped to look at Mt Conner and some salt flats, my feet burnt in the sand we walked across. We were heading for Uluru, the spiritual home for many Aboriginal people of this country. It did not disappoint. The rock rises massively out of the landscape and as we first saw it at sunset it was the most beautiful magenta colour. The next morning, we woke early and entered the park at 5 o'clock to watch the sun rise and again enjoy the changing colours of the rock. We then walked the 10 km around it's base. The literature given to you by the National Park in English asks you to refrain from climbing the rock as it is a sacred place for Aboriginal people and indeed only some of them have the right to climb. It seems a reasonable request, however it was ignored by many and from first light a line of ant-like figures started for the top. When we returned from our base walk at about 9 a.m., access to the climb had already been shut because it was over 36 degrees centigrade (or more) and those that had started up so sprightly were returning with much less spring in their step. Another good reason, possibly, not to climb the rock.
Sembla que el final de la nostra estada a Australia s'acosta molt depressa. La darrera setmana l'hem passat amb els Centralians als voltants d'Alice Springs, un "bonza town" (lloc extraordinari) segons Neville Shute.
Vam llogar una altra caravana i varem anar cap al sud pel desert. El primer dia feia tanta calor que quan varem parar per admirar el mont Conner i un desert de salt, els meus peus cremaven nomes de caminar sobre la sorra. Anavem cap a Uluru, el centre espiritual per molts Aborigenes del pais. No ens va decepcionar. La roca s'aixeca majestuosament sobre el paissatge i la primera vegada que la varem veure va ser amb la posta de sol i era d'un bonic color magenta. Pel mati varem entrar al parc a les 5 en punt per poder disfrutar de la sortida del sol i veure els colors cambiants d'Uluru. Despres varem caminar els 10 quilometres al voltant de la roca.
La informacio que et donen al Parc Nacional en angles et demana que t'abstinguis de pujar sobre la roca ja que es un lloc sagrat pels Aborigenes i de fet nomes alguns d'ells tenen "dret" a pujar-hi. Sembla una demanda prou raonable, encara que molts turistes la ignoren i aixi que va sortir el sol, una fila de gent com si fos de formigues iniciava l'ascencio. Quan varem acabar la nostra caminada, a les 9 del mati, l'acces a la pujada era tancat ja que feia mes de 36 graus i aquells que abans havien inicat la pujada ara tornaven molt cansats i molt mes a poc a poc. Una altra bona rao per no pujar a la roca.
Sembla que el final de la nostra estada a Australia s'acosta molt depressa. La darrera setmana l'hem passat amb els Centralians als voltants d'Alice Springs, un "bonza town" (lloc extraordinari) segons Neville Shute.
Vam llogar una altra caravana i varem anar cap al sud pel desert. El primer dia feia tanta calor que quan varem parar per admirar el mont Conner i un desert de salt, els meus peus cremaven nomes de caminar sobre la sorra. Anavem cap a Uluru, el centre espiritual per molts Aborigenes del pais. No ens va decepcionar. La roca s'aixeca majestuosament sobre el paissatge i la primera vegada que la varem veure va ser amb la posta de sol i era d'un bonic color magenta. Pel mati varem entrar al parc a les 5 en punt per poder disfrutar de la sortida del sol i veure els colors cambiants d'Uluru. Despres varem caminar els 10 quilometres al voltant de la roca.
La informacio que et donen al Parc Nacional en angles et demana que t'abstinguis de pujar sobre la roca ja que es un lloc sagrat pels Aborigenes i de fet nomes alguns d'ells tenen "dret" a pujar-hi. Sembla una demanda prou raonable, encara que molts turistes la ignoren i aixi que va sortir el sol, una fila de gent com si fos de formigues iniciava l'ascencio. Quan varem acabar la nostra caminada, a les 9 del mati, l'acces a la pujada era tancat ja que feia mes de 36 graus i aquells que abans havien inicat la pujada ara tornaven molt cansats i molt mes a poc a poc. Una altra bona rao per no pujar a la roca.
Monday, November 12, 2007
d'America a Australia / From America to Australia
Despres de passar els darrers dies d'octubre a la illa de Pascua disfrutant de vistes extraordinaries sobre el pacific, moais i meravelloses postes de sol, varem tornar a Santiago a passar-hi el darrer dia de les "Ameriques", el mateix dia que la Sego Royal passejava per alla, encara que no ens varem trobar... Tal i com estava previst varem embarcar el dimecres 30 d'octubre al vespre per anar cap a Sydney via Auckland. Despres de 12 0 13 hores de vol, aterravem a Nova Zelanda a les 4 del mati del divendres 2 de Novembre hora local (les 2 a Australia) i despres d'un parell d'hores sortiem cap a Sydney, on varem arribar vora quarts de 8 del mati. Com estava previst, haviem aconseguit evitar el dia de tots sants! Potser per castigar la nostra gosadia el cel descarregava litres i mes litres d'aigua, despres de la sequera mes llarga patida a la regio en els darrers 100 anys!
Arribar a un pais del 1er mon, on parlen angles i condueixen per l'esquerra va ser un xoc cultural, a mida que veiem mes coses mes estrany s'ens feia, semblava una europa a l'antiga amb edificis del futur... tot tan net i endrecat, tothom respectant els semafors i les limitacions de velocitat... un canvi radical respecte a les darreres 10 setmanes!
Avui hem volat a Tasmania, on comencem uns dies de "tour" en autocaravana, una novetat per a nosaltres que esperem disfrutar... esperem sobreviure en el petit espai en que viurem els propers dies, dormint en una "habitacio" encara mes petita que les que hem compartit fins ara.
De moment, aquesta tarda feia molt de sol, un canvi que ens ve molt de gust ja que a Syney, en 11 dies nomes 3 no ha diluviat.
After spending the last days of October in Easter Island enjoying its great views over the Pacific, moais and sunsets, we returned to Santiago the same day Segolene Royal was visiting the city. As planned we departed on Wednesday Oct 30th for Sydney, with a technical stop in Auckland. After landing there at 2 in the morning local time (4am in Sydney) on Nov 2nd we continued to our final destination where we wrrived around 7:30AM. As we hoped, we missed Nov 1st -All Saints Day- and maybe our penance was the rain that poured for the next few days... after the longest Australian drought of the last 100 years.
Arribar a un pais del 1er mon, on parlen angles i condueixen per l'esquerra va ser un xoc cultural, a mida que veiem mes coses mes estrany s'ens feia, semblava una europa a l'antiga amb edificis del futur... tot tan net i endrecat, tothom respectant els semafors i les limitacions de velocitat... un canvi radical respecte a les darreres 10 setmanes!
Avui hem volat a Tasmania, on comencem uns dies de "tour" en autocaravana, una novetat per a nosaltres que esperem disfrutar... esperem sobreviure en el petit espai en que viurem els propers dies, dormint en una "habitacio" encara mes petita que les que hem compartit fins ara.
De moment, aquesta tarda feia molt de sol, un canvi que ens ve molt de gust ja que a Syney, en 11 dies nomes 3 no ha diluviat.
After spending the last days of October in Easter Island enjoying its great views over the Pacific, moais and sunsets, we returned to Santiago the same day Segolene Royal was visiting the city. As planned we departed on Wednesday Oct 30th for Sydney, with a technical stop in Auckland. After landing there at 2 in the morning local time (4am in Sydney) on Nov 2nd we continued to our final destination where we wrrived around 7:30AM. As we hoped, we missed Nov 1st -All Saints Day- and maybe our penance was the rain that poured for the next few days... after the longest Australian drought of the last 100 years.
Landing in a 1st world country, where they speak English and drive on the left was a cultural shock. As we saw a little more of the land it seemed we were in Europe 30 years ago with futuristic architecture... all neat and tidy, following all the traffic rules and stopping at red lights, what a change after the last 10 weeks!
Today we have flown to Tasmania, where we are starting a tour of the island in a motorhome, a novelty we hope to enjoy... and hope to survive sharing such a small space, sleeping altogether in an even smaller room than until now. This afternoon was sunny, a change from the last days in Sydney, where only 3 out of 11 days where nice and dry.
Picture to follo due to internet limitations at the hostel / Falta la foto pero la internet de l'hostal no ho permet...
Monday, October 22, 2007
Patagonian channels 1 Canals de la Patagonia
Bé, ja som a Temuco. Aquest matí hem desembarcat del "Evangelistas" (fins fa poc Magallanes) a Puerto Montt després de 4 dies en mig de gairebé silenci, boira, pluja i fins mars arrissats i tot.
El viatge ha estat extraordinàri encara que de vistes poques per les condicions climàtiques. Hem vist una foca nedant, un parell de "lobos de mar" en la distància i la cua d'uns dofins que ja no varen tornar a la superficie, i també hem trobat troços de gel surant pels canals i hem vist moltes aus marines. Hem navegat pel Golf de Penas amb vents entre 6 i 7 de l'escala Beaufort i no ens hem marejat - potser gràcies a una pindola que varem prendre prudencialment una hora abans de creuar-lo- i a més de dormir i descansar hem acabat llibres i endreçat retalls pendents.
La darrera nit fins varem participar en el bingo Patagònic i l'Ella gairebé hi guanya una ampolla de wiskey... però la dona mexicana que també havia cantat "bingo" va enthusiasmar més el públic -majoritariament de mitjana edat com ella- en el ball de desempat...
Avui hem intentat viatjar primer de P. Montt a Temuco en tren, per després seguir cap a Santiago en un altre tren, malhauradament el servei fa mesos que està suspès ja que -encara no és clar- o no hi ha màquines disponibles o n'hi ha una d'averiada a mig camí. Després de fer el trajecte en bus, hem tornat a intentar agafar el tren cap a Santiago a Temuco, on ens han tornat a confirmar que el servei fa mesos que està suspès - també en aquest tram- segons el taxista que ens ha portat de l'estació a la terminal de busos, per culpa del govern socialista que tenen i el d'Espanya que va vendre a l'anterior president - Lagos- trens que no funcionen... ves a saber... O sigui que hem reservat seients en el bus-cama de la nit per arribar Santiago demà ben aviat pel matí. Desgraciadament haurem d'esperar a un altre viatge per disfrutar dels trens chilens.
We have now arrived to Temuco. This morning we disembarked the Evangelistas (previously known as Magallanes) in Puerto Montt, after 4 days in very silent seas amongst fog, rain and even choppy waters. The journey was great even if we did not seen much due to the climatic conditions. We spotted a seal, two sea lions -in the distance- and some dolphins' tails going back into the sea, as well as some ice plaques floating down the channel and many sea birds. We sailed the Penas Gulf with winds up to level 6 0r 7 from the Beaufort scale and we weren't sick - thanks to great sea sickness pills we took- and as well as catching up with sleep, we have finished books and updated our scrap books. The last night we even participated in an organised bingo and Ella almost won a bottle of whiskey, although a middle aged Mexican lady snatched it from her in the dance-off, as her dancing pleased the also middle aged majority of the audience more.
Today we attemped to travel to Santiago by train from Puerto Montt, only to find out that the trains to Temuco have not been running for several months and then again once in Temuco we learned that the night service to Santiago has also been cancelled for a variety of reasons which we could not really confirm, so we've booked seats on a night "bed-bus". We will leave Chilean trains for our next visit.
Tuesday, October 16, 2007
La fi del mon / The end of the world
Som a Ushuaia, la ciutat mes meridional de l'Argentina o la fi del mon com en diuen aqui. Ahir varem esquiar, era el darrer dia de la temporada i no en en poguerem resistir... quin plaer, neu a partir de 400 metres, encara que partir de les 2 una mica mullada, pero a 1400 metres encara era neu pols, i amb la nevadeta que va fer a prtir de la una, varem poder disfrutar dels darrers centimetres de neu pols acabada de caure! Encara que deien que es podia veure el mar, la veritat es que les muntanyes i els nuvols ens ho van impedir.. pero no va restar excitacio a l'experiencia (per cert, els accents no funcionen en aquest ordinador/teclat).
Avui hem anat fins a la Estancia Haberton i despres en zodiac pel canal Beagle (amb aigua segurament a 2° de temperatura) en Zodiac fins a l'Illa Martillo a veure pinguins Magallins i Papues... una experiencia unica i totalment privilegiada. Eren deu persones caminant -amb compte- per l'illa, entre els primers pinguins de la temporada!
No ens acabem de creure el que estem vivint! Som nomes a tres mil quilometres del pol sud!
L'arribada a Ushuaia va ser espectacular... l'avio va sobrevolar la ciutat per seguir pel Beagle per girar entre cops de vent i muntanyes nevades (el final dels Andes) i tornar cap a la ciutat per aterrar... un altre aeroport unic! Tenim tanta sort de poder ser aqui!
Avui, finalmet, hem cuinat: corder patagonic a la cassola amb cebes caramelitzades en cervesa negra fueguina, acompanyat d'uns gnochi casolans - fets pels de la "Panaderia Eureka", que son molt bons- amb salsa de tomaquet i parmesa (argenti), acompanyat d'un Pinot Noir (Saurus) dels cellers Patagonics Schroeder... l'enveja dels altres estadants de l'hostal -modestia apart.
Dema tindrem un dia extra a Ushuaia, ja que ens ha fallat el bus que haviem d'agafar fins a Punta Arenas i no podrem marxar fins dijous. Un avantatge es que marxarem a les 8 del mati enlloc de les 5:30, l'inconvenient es que arribarem a Puerto Natles passades les nou del vespre i hi haviem de ser abans per embarcar al vaixell que ens portara fins a Puerto Montt, navegant pels canals patagonics... esperem que ens hi deixin embarcar malgrat arribar tard!
We are in Ushuaia, the most southerly city in Argentina or the end of the world as they call it here. Yesterday we did some skiing, it was the last day of the season and hard to resist the temptation... what a pleasure, snow starting at 400 metres and although a little slushy, it was pure powder at 1400 meters...topped up with some snow falling from midday... meant we enjoyed recent powder! Although we were told one could ski with views of the sea, the mountains and clouds didn't allow us to enjoy the view... however this didn't spoil the experience, which we all fully enjoyed!
Today, we went to the Haberton Estancia and navigated the Beagle Channel in a zodiac (in waters that must have been no warmer than 2° centigrades) to Isla Martillo (Hammer Island) to see Magellan and Papua (Gentoo) Penguins... a totally unique and priviledged experience. There we were only ten people walking amongst the first penguins to reach the island!
We can't believe what we are experiencing! We are only 3000km from the South Pole!
Arriving in Ushuaia was something else, landing amongst snow-capped mountains (the end of the Andes) whilst turning into the Beagle Channel in quite a windy morning, was another amazing arrival! We are so lucky to be able to be here!
Finally tonight we actually cooked our dinner: Patagonian lamb with caramelized onions and local dark beer, accompanied with home made gnochi - courtesy of the local deli "Panaderia Eureka"- with tomato sauce and Argentinian parmesan, washed down with the local Pinot Noir... the envy of all the other hostel guests - even if I say so myself!
Tomorrow we are enjoying an extra day in Ushuaia as the bus we should have taken was full. The upside is our bus will leave on Thursday at 8 instead of Wednesday at 5:30 a.m. The downside is we'll have a tight connection and arrive to Puerto Natales after 9 pm, when we should have already boarded our ship ... lets hope they still let us on, as we cannot miss the sail through the Channels of Patagonia we have planned!
Wednesday, October 10, 2007
Issues pending / Coses pendents
(Gossos abandonats pel seu passejador a BA / Dogs abandoned by their walker in BA)Sovint pensem a fer un blog i a explicar com vivim alguns llocs o experiències que passem, però massa sovint deixem coses fora, no les acabem d'explicar, i és clar, vosaltres no en sabeu res... A voltes pensem que hauriem d'escriure sobre les rutines i les quotidianitats que vivim... quantes hores en cada vol, quantes viatjant en total, els hostals on dormim, els llits, els matalassos, les dutxes que hem trobat fins ara, els taxis, la conducció a cada ciutat, els cinemes que hem visitat, les pel.licules que hem vist i on, els restaurants on menjem, les referències de les guies de viatge que funcionen i les que no, els blogs que mai farem però que hem pensat.. en definitiva una llarga llista de coses que volem compartir i que potser no acabarem de fer-vos saber mai.
Ahir varem dinar en un restaurant de Buenos Aires que sortia a la Lonely Planet "South America on a shoestring" del carrer Lavalle que no valia res -es diu Parrilla al Carbón, al numero 663- i s'hauria d'eliminar de la guia. La darrera nit, i aquesta, les passem a l'Hostel Lime, que és més brut del que indiquen a la mateixa guia i més car, i on la música que sona fins a les 2 del matí a tot volum, i fa que intentar tenir cap conversa sigui inútil, a més no netegen les habitacions més que entre estades... Ahir varem entrar a un cafè "italià" també al carrer Lavalle, que es diu Caravela i hauria de sortir a totes les guies com a autèntic cafè per prendre els millors "capucinos" i les pastes de "dulce de leche" més bones i dolces que hem provat mai i a força bon preu, i a més són molt amables i, a l'Ella que no volia cafè, li varen fer un "submarino" -vas de llet calenta amb una xocolatina fonent-se dins- ja que no tenien cacao...
Mentre les "noies" resposaven i socialitzaven a l'hostal sorollós, nosaltres hem intentat trobar traces de l'estada del besavi Utrillo a la ciutat. Hem començat pel MNBA (Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes - si no m'equivoco) i malgrat que hi havia una vaga indefinida reclamant millors condicions laborals, hem pogut veure una exquisida col.lecció d'art modern Europeu que incloia obres de Gauguin, Degas, Monet, Picasso, Anglada-Camarasa, Zuloaga, Goya, Rusiñol i Rothko entre altres...
Ja que l'arxiu era tancat, hem anat a la Biblioteca Nacional Argentina - un edifici modern que no ens agrada gens i que questiona el gust d'alguns arquitectes- i després de diversos intents hem trobat una enthusiasta persona que ens ha ajudat en els primers passos - i s'ha emocionat al saber que era besnet de l'artista- encara que després de consultar sis o set llibres - el procés per demanar-los és força lent encara que eficáç- no hem trobat res a part de referències a societats o persones contemporànees... si podem seguirem amb l'intent i fins potser viatgem a Mar del Plata i tot per veure alguna pintura a l'esgésia...
Per cert, ara les noies estan arreglant-se - són gairebé les 11 del vespre- per sortir amb un grup d'anglesos/es que han conegut i anar "clubbing" per BA... mentre nosaltres ja estem a punt per anar a dormir.
Si no ho ha fet directament l'Ella volem confirmar que va rebre força missatges i alguna trucada i algun correu electrònic felicitant-la pel seu aniversari, gracies a tots, de debò li va agradar que us en recordessiu!
Al arribar aquí plovia i avui ho ha tornat a fer... de fet hem tingut força pluja en tot el viatge, ho dic per si algú pensava que hem tingut només estiu... sembla més aviat una primavera constant - i força bonica- amb les plujes associades. A Boipeba va ploure tres dies i va fer sol els dos darrers. Ens varem banyar a l'Atlàntic i ens varem cremar una mica amb el sol... però ja tocava. Allà les platges són d'anunci i hi haurem de tornar. Tant a Boipeba com a Sao Paulo, les flors, les fruites i la vegetació són extraordinàries: hi ha de tot i força. En Charles i en Maties (i en Mark, el germà d'en Charles) ens varen tractar massa bé, varem menjar com feia temps no ho feiem, varem llegir molt i varem reposar.
De fet la visita al Brasil era la primera a un món més proper al nostre, i ens va agradar, i tant que si. Al vol cap a Buenos Aires la BA ens va donar quatre seients separats ja que l'avió anava ple - venia de Londres- i al pujar varem tenir la sorpresa de trobar-lo ple de soldats argentins que tornaven a casa després de passar 6 mesos a Xipre... evidentment vaig dir que no veia clar que la Diana, l'Ella i la Blanche passessin més de dues hores entre la tropa i amablement BA ens va oferir seients entre business i turista on poder seure junts i sense soldats... Em va semblar un xic irònic que després de "Les Malvines" l'exèrcit argentí envii les tropes a casa en un vol de British Airways...
Diumenge, aviat - a les 6- volem cap a Tierra del Fuego! En tenim força ganes i esperem veure paisatges nous i potser fins alguna balena i tot. Diuen que encara hi fa fred (entre 0 i 9 graus) i amb sort podrem fer una esquiadeta el dilluns, el darrer dia de la temporada, potser fins en unes pistes amb vistes al mar... de fet les úniques on es pot esquiar amb vistes al mar... Després hem de fer cap a Puerto Natales d'on sortirem divendres 19 al matí, en vaixell, cap a Puerto Montt, on hem d'arribar el 22 - segons com estigui la mar. Després cap a Santiago abans de visitar l'Illa de Pasqua i deixar Amèrica del Sud.
Aquest mes d'octubre està sent una mica diferent de les altres setmanes de viatge, hem visitat amics i després al anar cap al sud, hem trobat un món més semblant al nostre. A mi m'ha desorientat una mica, encara que també he agraït tornar a trobar el comfort al que estem tant acostumats.
L'experiència de l'Amèrica del Sud ha estat molt bona i interessant, però sembla que s'acosta el moment de marxar cap a altres llocs, i tots estem a punt.
We often think about writing a blog explaining how we've been living in different places, or the experiences we've had but, more often than not, we leave things out, we never explain them and of course you don't get to know about these things ... At times we've considered writing about our routines and daily activities ... how many hours each flight has lasted, how many hours in total, the hostels we've stayed in, the beds, the matresses, the showers we've found so far, the taxis, driving in each city, the cinemas we've visited, which films we've seen and where, the restuarants we've eaten in, the guide-book references we've used which have been worthwhile and those that have not, blogs that we'll never write but which we've thought of ... indeed, a long list of things we'd like to share but probably never will.
Yesterday we ate lunch in Parrilla al Carbón, C/Lavalle 663, Buenos Aires, that we had found in the Lonely Planet guide "South America on a Shoestring" and it was dreadful. It shouldn't appear in the guide. Likewise we spent the night at the Hostel Lime which was not only unclean and more expensive than the guide indicated but also played loud music until 2 in the morning and so trying to have a conversation was impossible (as was sleep) and it turns out they only clean rooms between guests not every day. However, yesterday, by chance we found an Italian café, in the same street as the restaurant, which does not appear in any guides but which serves the most delicious capucinos and the nicest cakes filled with dulce de leche we've ever tried at a reasonable price and they were very friendly. Ella didn't want coffee and so was served a "submarino" - hot mik with a bar of chocolate melting into it!
Today,whilst the girls rested and socialised at the noisy hostel, we tried to find references to great-grandfather Utrillo in the city. We started at MNBA (Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes) and, despite the museum workers' strike for better conditions, managed to see a beautiful collection including works by Gauguin, Degas, Monet, Picasso, Anglada-Camarasa, Zuloaga, Goya, Rusiñol and Rothko, amongst others.
As the archive was shut, we then went to the National Library - a modern building of questionable architectural taste in need of repair - and after several enquiries found a lovely, enthusiastic woman who helped us get started - she got quite emotional when she knew I was the artist's great-grandson. The process is quite long, although efficient, and after consulting 6 or 7 books we only managed to find references to various artistic circles and societies and contemporaries of his - if we are to continue the search we probably should go to Mar del Plata and visit the church there...
By the way, the girls are, as I write this, getting dressed up - it's 11 at night - to go clubbing with a group of Brits they've met - we are, of course, on our way to bed. If she hasn't contacted you already, Ella would like to say thank you to everyone who sent messages on her birthday. She loved the fact that people remembered.
It was raining when we arrived here and it rained again today .... indeed we've had quite a bit of rain on this trip so far, I tell you this so you don't think we've had only summer ... more accurately, constant spring with showers. At Boipeba it rained for three days and was sunny for two. We bathed in the Atlantic and burnt a little in the sun ... The beaches there are beautiful and we'll have to go back. Both in Boipeba and Sao Paulo the flowers, fruit and vegetation are extraordinary: there's lots of it! Charles, Matias and Mark (Charles' brother) accommodated us in style, we ate well, read loads and rested.
Brazil was the first place that was similar to our own and we liked it a lot, of course. On our flight from Sao Paulo to BA (the city) we were given 4 separate seats because the flight was full - it had come from London. When we boarded we found it full of Argentinian soldiers returning home after 6 months in Cyprus. I obviously pointed out that I wasn't happy that Diana, Ella and Blanche spent more than two hours sitting between the troops and BA (the airline) kindly upgraded us so we could sit together without soldiers ... It seemed a little ironic that post "Las Malvines" (the Falklands) the Argentinian army sends its troops home on British Airways ...
At 6 a.m. on Sunday we fly to Tierra del Fuego. We're looking forward to it and expect to see new landscapes and maybe even a whale. It's still cold there (between 0 and 9º) and hopefully we'll be able to ski on Monday (the last day of the season) possibly even with sea views ... indeed these are the only slopes in the world with sea views. Then we head for Puerto Natales, where we leave by ship on the 19th to Puerto Montt, where we arrive on the 22nd - depending on weather conditions. After that we visit Santiago before visiting Easter Island and then we leave south America for good. This month has been a little different to the previous ones. We've visited friends and discovered, as we've headed south, a world much more similar to our own. It's been a little disorientating although very nice to experience some comfort again. Our experience in south America has been good and really interesting , although now it does feel like we're all ready for new places.
Friday, October 5, 2007
Pingo de Ouro / Drop of Gold
Després de dotze mesos d'espera, l'Ella finalment va fer 18 anys aquest dimecres. Inicialment haviem de passar la nit viatjant però la TAM va canviar el nostre vol i semblava que arribariem a Salvador abans de mitja nit... finalment van ser passades les 2 del matí quan aterravem, i després de dormir una mica al pis d'en Charles varem emprendre el camí cap a Boipeba: taxi fins al port, una hora de ferri per creuar la badia, dues hores de bus fins a Valença i finalment una hora de llanxa ràpida passant entre precisos manglars fins a l'illa. Un viatge extraordinari per arribar a una illa també extraoridaria. A l'Ella l'esperava un pastís (bolo) de xocolata amb crema de coco decorat amb extraordinaries flors de colors variats, i entre elles hi havia orquidies "Pingo de Ouro". Si bé varen faltar la familia i els seus amics a la celebració, segur que recordarà el lloc i el pastís tan especials que va tenir en el seu pas a la majoria d'edat. Felicitats Ella.
After 12 months of waiting, Ella finally clebrated her 18th birthday last Wednesday. We should have spent the night travelling, but TAM changed the flight and so it seemed we´d arrive in Salvador before midnight .... however we finally landed at just after 2 in the morning, and after a short sleep at Charles´ flat we set off for Boipeba – a taxi to the port, a ferry across the bay, a two hour bus journey to Valença and finally an hour by speed-boat through the mangrove to the island. An extraordinary journey to an extraordinary island. A chocolate cake filled with fresh coconut cream and decorated with beautiful tropical flowers, including some tiny yellow orchids called "Pingo de Ouro", was awaiting her arrival. Maybe her friends and family were missing from the celebration, but there´s no doubt that Ella will remember this lovely place and the special cake given to her for her coming of age. Happy Birthday, Ella.
Monday, September 24, 2007
Llac Titi”jaja” / Lake Titi”haha”
Finalment varem visitar Puno i el famós llac Titicaca… del Cusco varem agafar el tren i en 10 horetes erem a Puno. Nit en un hostal de motxillers on les noies varen parlar amb uns nois Californians que havien vist al tren, i que com que viuen a Santiago, esperem tornar a veure aviat… i sortida ben aviat cap a algunes illes del Titicaca. Haviem agafat un “tour” del llac amb estada a Amantaní amb una familia local, per poder conèixer com viuen i amb guia inclòs. En cada explicació, el guia insistia, potser per tractar-se d’un grup mixte anglo hispànic, en anomenar el llac: Titijaja – enlloc de pel seu nom comú de Titicaca… Malgrat que la visita va començar de forma molt turística, amb parada en una illa flotant dels Uros, i seguidament en una altra on fins hi havia un cibercafè i tot – malgrat que ens estaven venent el lloc com el darrer paradís i els seus primitius habitants- l’arribada i estada a Amantaní va resultar molt més interessant: tornavem a compartir casa de fang i menjar amb gent del lloc. Al vespre ens varen deixar els seus vestits de gala tradicionals i vam anar a ballar junts… un “xou” muntat pels turistes, però on pots disfrutar de la companyia dels teus hostes i ballar a més de 4 mil metres sobre el nivell del mar, cosa força cansada quan cada cançó dura almenys 10 minuts! Pel matí visita a Taquile, una altra illa amb tradicions diferents i tornada a Puno en barca. Una barca amb motor de cotxe, que malhauradament va voler deixar de funcionar al bell mig del llac, amb vents creuats i onades que semblaven gegants; sobretot quan la cara del capità va canviar a un to molt més clar i va abandonar el timó per anar a arreglar el motor… Després del que va semblar una bona estona amb corregudes amunt i avall, llançar l’ancora per no anar a la deriva, i deixar-me a mi al timó intentant evitar que les onades ens embestissin pel costat – amb el risc d’omplir-nos d’aigua i acabar nedant en un llac força fred, una altra barca va arribar i després de molts esforços varen lligar un parell de cordes per remolcar-nos! Les cordes es varen trencar i les van tornar a lligar; ja fora de la zona de vents ens varen tornar a deixar sols; més tard dues barques més varen venir i ens varen remolcar una altra estona, una a cada costat durant una altra estona; finalment una quarta barca va arribar i després de lligar-la al nostre costat, varen fer passar tot el passatge a la nova barca per segui remolcant-nos, les cordes es varen tornar a trencar i a lligar de nou… finalment varem abandonar la nostra barca amb el seu capità proa del port i varem arribar a terra… Adéu al llac Titi”ja,ja?”
We finally visited Puno and the famous Lake Titicaca. From Cuzco we travelled by train for ten hours. Once in Puno we found our backpackers hostel, where the girls chatted to some Californian blokes – who had been on the train- who incidentally live in Santiago, so we may see them again… Early morning we sailed to some of the lake’s islands. We had “contracted” one of the lake’s tours which includes a stay with islanders at Amantani, so we could see how the inhabitants lived and share mutual experiences. The tour included a guide who insisted in calling the lake Titi”haha”, perhaps because he was mixing Spanish and English, trying to satisfy the mixed group needs… Despite a very touristic and disappointing start to the tour, visiting the too commercialized for our taste Uros islands - where one could even find an internet café-, once we reached Amantani everything started to be more interesting. We were sharing a mud hut again and eating with our hosts. That evening they provided us with local gala robes and invited us to join in traditional dances in the local hall. Obviously this was organised for the tourists, but spending that evening with our hosts was a nice experience and we all enjoyed it, although dancing 10 minute long songs at more than 4000 metres leaves you exhausted! Early morning we left Amantani to go to Taquile, another island with very different traditions, and were to return to Puno after lunch. The journey was in an old boat with a car engine installed, which decided to stop working when we where in the middle of the lake, enduring strong winds and waves that seemed enormous at the time, specially when the captain left the “wheel” to try to repair the engine… After what seemed like a very long time and many journeys across the boat, having dropped the anchor to stop us reaching the rocky coast, and leaving me trying to steer the boat, so the waves didn’t make us capsize into the freezing water, another boat arrived to our rescue… after what seemed like a struggle, the two boats continued together, not without many incidents, like the ropes breaking in the process… Once we were in a safe area, we were left alone again until another two boats continued the towing job… we only reached Puno after a 4th boat did the final stretch with us and all the passengers had been transfered to that last boat… Good bye Lake Titi”ha,ha?”
Sunday, September 16, 2007
Cuba finally / Finalment Cuba
Vaig deixar passar uns dies per escriure sobre Cuba; primer perque encara hi havia els Morell allà i també per digerir un xic l'experiència. Ara ja fa dies que hi penso i vull explicar què em va semblar l'illa i la nostra visita.
Arribar a l'Havana va ser molt agradable, el taxi ens va portar fent un passeig cap a la casa particular on ens haviem d'allotjar, ens anava explicant què era cada fàbrica i com de bé anaven les coses amb en Fidel, ja fa més de 40 anys. Al arribar a la casa ens va cobrar tres vegades el que marcava el taximetre i quan li varem preguntar com era, va fer un silenci total. No hi havia discussió!
La casa on varem estar les primeres dues nits pertanyia a una familia d'origen Gallec que eren molt adeptes al règim. Un fins havia estat part del consell d'estat en algun moment. Varem tenir una llarga xerrada de política mundial i finalment, ja ben tard, vaig aconseguir parlar de política Cubana. Tot era una meravella, i els EEUU un dimòni mentider, sengons ells la història no és exactament com l'entenem els europeus, fins a un punt un xic surrealista.
Ja fora de la ciutat, visitant parts més o menys turístiques, sovint et semblava que eres una font d'ingressos i prou... els preus anaven creixent a mida que passava l'estona, qui era amable acabava demanant més diners dels acordats o sugerits en primer lloc; de sobte les normes per a les cases particulars canviaven i ens calia agafar una habitació extra per les noies, ja que ens deien a partir dels 15 anys es consideraven com adults i no es podia compartir cambra... Ens insistien en menjar a les cases però el que ens donaven era de molt poca qualitat i sempre el mateix: quants cops es pot menjar pollastre sec en pocs dies? De sobte et trobaves recollint un autoestopista (jinetero) a 80 km de la propera ciutat i sense saber com, acavaba portant-te a casa d'una sogra que no ho era, que ni el coneixia, i et llogava una habitació que no tenia res a veure amb la descripció que t'havia fet. Quan demanaves explicacions o questionaves alguna cosa, tornava el silenci que saben fer els Cubans. Mutis, cap resposta o com a molt canvi de tema. Mai s'embrancaven en una discussió.
Ens va semblar que volent sortir de les rutes "normals" es fa molt difícil viatjar, i que quan et penses que ho has aconseguit, un altre cop, t'estant fent servir, d'una manera o altra.
Els serveis i les infraestructures son molt bàsics si no estan deixats dels tot, però els Cubans - els que parlen- ho defensen i en donen la culpa a l'embargament. Sorpren que els més abandonats, son els que més ho defensen tot... Una vegada una noia que vivia sense electricitat i havia de traslladar-se més d'una hora sense transport públic, deia que tot anava bé... encara que potser desconeixia que a l'Havana i a les altres ciutats si n'hi havia d'electricitat i de transport públic, enacara que basic.
El país és molt interessant, però decepciona que tothom hi visqui a base d'"arreglos" i que han creat una societat de classes més extrema que en molts països capitalistes.
Els militars tenen més drets que ningú i condueixen cotxes en condicions, mentre que l'altra gent ha d'esperar una guagua que els portarà amuntegats a treballar, si es que tenen feina. Els que tenere "remesa" de familiars a Florida o en altres parts del món, poden comprar en CUCs i viure com a classe mitjana, i els que no tenen a ningú han de "buscar-se la vida" com poden.
Hi ha joves que no formen families perquè no volen que els seus fills visquin això, i com que no poden marxar es deprimeixen esperant una oportunitat d'escapar; encara que saben que no és la solució i que el que realment voldrien és un canvi per quedarse a la seva illa.
De tornada a l'Havana, abans de marxar, varem acabar en una casa particular d'una familia que havia estat rica però ara no ho era; els guardava la casa un noi i varem passar una nit desperts en una casa gegant, fantasmagòrica, amb matalassos de més de 40 anys i sense roba de llit, preocupats per si venia una inspecció ja que no havien fet els papers -i per tant era un lloguer il.legal-, o per si entrava algú altre. Pel matí varem marxar, deixant una propina però no pagant per la nit, ja que no era raonable... varem buscar un altre habitació per la darrera nit i varem trobar-ne a casa una dona extraordinària, un xic gran, que havia estat part de la revolució. Vivia aturada en el temps, parlant dels camarades com si fossin els anys 60 i de com ballaven amb les botes posades. Ens va acollir molt bé, varem conversar molt i fins ens va fer algun obsèqui i tot. Aquella nit varem dormir molt bé, encara que com que l'avió marxava aviat, a les 4 del matí ja preniem un cafè de despedida.
Per cert, la darrera nit varem anar al Copelia, la famosa geladeria simbol dels resultats de la revolució, creada als anys 60, , on els cubans encara fan llargues cues per menjar els seus gelats, encara per nosaltres, com a estrangers, no n'hi havia de cues. Varem disfrutar d'una plata de gelat per persona, entre molts cubans que també en menjaven; això si, aquell dia, tocava xocolata, i tots haviem de menjar el que tocava: cinc boles de gelat de xocolata per plata, centenars de persones menjant a la vegada plates amb cinc boles de gelat de xocolata!
I’ve waited some time to write about Cuba, firstly because the Morells were still there and secondly because I needed to digest the experience. I’ve been thinking about it for days and would like to explain what I thought about the island and our visit.
Our arrival in Havana was most pleasant. A taxi took us to the private house we were staying in and as we drove there the driver pointed out every factory and told us how well things were going after 40 years of Fidel.
When we arrived at the house, he charged us three times the amount on the meter and when we asked why, our question was met with silence. The house we stayed in for the first two nights was owned by a family of Galician origin who were very supportive of the system. One of them had been part of the ruling party at one time. I had a long chat with him about world politics and eventually, by this time it was late, about Cuban politics. According to him, everything is marvellous and the USA is a lying demon and that history is not exactly as Europeans have been led to believe it to be: all a little bit surreal.
Once we’d left the city visiting more or less tourist sights we came to feel we were only walking cash machines … prices rose as we were chatting to people..... friendliness always turned into asking for more money than originally agreed… all of a sudden the rules governing private houses changed as we were told anybody over 15 was considered an adult and so the girls couldn’t share a room with us ..... they insisted on us eating in but the food was always of a very poor quality and always the same .... how often can you eat dry chicken? ....more than once, having picked up a hitch-hiker, sometimes 80km from our destination, the hitcher (jinetero) would take us to a non-existent ‘mother-in-law’s’ house where they would offer very different services to the ones he’s promised e.g. smaller/fewer rooms or no bath. When we asked for an explanation or questioned something, we were met with a silence that all Cubans seemed able to create when necessary. Mute. No reply or they changed the subject, an art they have all mastered. They never engaged in any kind of real debate.
We wanted to avoid the more touristy routes, but travelling that way proved difficult and once we thought we’d mastered it we had a feeling we were being used again in one way or another. Services and infrastructures are really basic, if not totally abandoned. However, the few Cubans who were willing to talk about this claimed things were alright or that it was the fault of the embargo. Surprisingly, those with fewer services and little state support were the most defensive of the system. One of our hitchers, a young woman who lived in the north without electricity and who had to regularly travel for more than one hour without any public transport kept claiming that everything was going well.....unknowingly, perhaps, that Havana and other cities have had electricity for a long time and also a very basic public transport system.
The country is very interesting but it is disappointing that everyone has to live by breaking the rules and that they have created a class society, at times more extreme than in some capitalist countries. The military have more rights and drive better cars than anybody else, meanwhile most people have to wait for a ‘guagua’ (bus) to get to work packed in like sardines, if they’re lucky enough to have a job. Those that receive money from their relatives in Florida or anywhere else, can purchase in CUCs and live a middle-class lifestyle, whilst those without this outside support have to struggle to survive.
There are young people who are not starting families because they do not want their children to live this life, and because they cannot leave the island they get depressed waiting for an opportunity to escape, although they are very aware that that is not the best solution for their country and what they would really like to see is a change so they could have a better life in Cuba.
Before leaving, we returned to Havana and ended up staying in what was once a rich family’s home, now empty and looked after by a young man (guard). We were awake all night in this enormous, seemingly haunted house, lying on at least 40-year-old mattresses without any bedding, worrying if an inspector – this was an illegal stay, as they hadn’t declared it – or anyone else would come in. Early the next day, we left leaving a tip but of course not paying the full rate, as it was totally unacceptable – think Miss Haversham! We looked for another room for our last night and found one in an extraordinary woman’s flat. If only we’d found her on our arrival! Getting on now, she had lived the revolution and was still living in those times. She talked about her comrades, dancing in her combat boots, chatted a lot to us and even gave us a gift. That night we slept really well, although not for long as our plane was leaving very early in the morning, so at 4 in the morning we were having a coffee with her.
By the way, on our last night in Havana, we went to Copelia, the famous ice-cream palour opened in the 60s and a symbol of the revolution’s achievements, where Cubans still queue round the block to enjoy their ice-cream, although, as foreigners, we didn’t have to queue. We enjoyed a large ice-cream ‘ensalada’ along with all the other local customers; this comprised of chocolate ice-cream with chocolate ice-cream – 5 scoops of chocolate ice-cream, the only flavour available. Very nice if you really like chocolate ...
Arribar a l'Havana va ser molt agradable, el taxi ens va portar fent un passeig cap a la casa particular on ens haviem d'allotjar, ens anava explicant què era cada fàbrica i com de bé anaven les coses amb en Fidel, ja fa més de 40 anys. Al arribar a la casa ens va cobrar tres vegades el que marcava el taximetre i quan li varem preguntar com era, va fer un silenci total. No hi havia discussió!
La casa on varem estar les primeres dues nits pertanyia a una familia d'origen Gallec que eren molt adeptes al règim. Un fins havia estat part del consell d'estat en algun moment. Varem tenir una llarga xerrada de política mundial i finalment, ja ben tard, vaig aconseguir parlar de política Cubana. Tot era una meravella, i els EEUU un dimòni mentider, sengons ells la història no és exactament com l'entenem els europeus, fins a un punt un xic surrealista.
Ja fora de la ciutat, visitant parts més o menys turístiques, sovint et semblava que eres una font d'ingressos i prou... els preus anaven creixent a mida que passava l'estona, qui era amable acabava demanant més diners dels acordats o sugerits en primer lloc; de sobte les normes per a les cases particulars canviaven i ens calia agafar una habitació extra per les noies, ja que ens deien a partir dels 15 anys es consideraven com adults i no es podia compartir cambra... Ens insistien en menjar a les cases però el que ens donaven era de molt poca qualitat i sempre el mateix: quants cops es pot menjar pollastre sec en pocs dies? De sobte et trobaves recollint un autoestopista (jinetero) a 80 km de la propera ciutat i sense saber com, acavaba portant-te a casa d'una sogra que no ho era, que ni el coneixia, i et llogava una habitació que no tenia res a veure amb la descripció que t'havia fet. Quan demanaves explicacions o questionaves alguna cosa, tornava el silenci que saben fer els Cubans. Mutis, cap resposta o com a molt canvi de tema. Mai s'embrancaven en una discussió.
Ens va semblar que volent sortir de les rutes "normals" es fa molt difícil viatjar, i que quan et penses que ho has aconseguit, un altre cop, t'estant fent servir, d'una manera o altra.
Els serveis i les infraestructures son molt bàsics si no estan deixats dels tot, però els Cubans - els que parlen- ho defensen i en donen la culpa a l'embargament. Sorpren que els més abandonats, son els que més ho defensen tot... Una vegada una noia que vivia sense electricitat i havia de traslladar-se més d'una hora sense transport públic, deia que tot anava bé... encara que potser desconeixia que a l'Havana i a les altres ciutats si n'hi havia d'electricitat i de transport públic, enacara que basic.
El país és molt interessant, però decepciona que tothom hi visqui a base d'"arreglos" i que han creat una societat de classes més extrema que en molts països capitalistes.
Els militars tenen més drets que ningú i condueixen cotxes en condicions, mentre que l'altra gent ha d'esperar una guagua que els portarà amuntegats a treballar, si es que tenen feina. Els que tenere "remesa" de familiars a Florida o en altres parts del món, poden comprar en CUCs i viure com a classe mitjana, i els que no tenen a ningú han de "buscar-se la vida" com poden.
Hi ha joves que no formen families perquè no volen que els seus fills visquin això, i com que no poden marxar es deprimeixen esperant una oportunitat d'escapar; encara que saben que no és la solució i que el que realment voldrien és un canvi per quedarse a la seva illa.
De tornada a l'Havana, abans de marxar, varem acabar en una casa particular d'una familia que havia estat rica però ara no ho era; els guardava la casa un noi i varem passar una nit desperts en una casa gegant, fantasmagòrica, amb matalassos de més de 40 anys i sense roba de llit, preocupats per si venia una inspecció ja que no havien fet els papers -i per tant era un lloguer il.legal-, o per si entrava algú altre. Pel matí varem marxar, deixant una propina però no pagant per la nit, ja que no era raonable... varem buscar un altre habitació per la darrera nit i varem trobar-ne a casa una dona extraordinària, un xic gran, que havia estat part de la revolució. Vivia aturada en el temps, parlant dels camarades com si fossin els anys 60 i de com ballaven amb les botes posades. Ens va acollir molt bé, varem conversar molt i fins ens va fer algun obsèqui i tot. Aquella nit varem dormir molt bé, encara que com que l'avió marxava aviat, a les 4 del matí ja preniem un cafè de despedida.
Per cert, la darrera nit varem anar al Copelia, la famosa geladeria simbol dels resultats de la revolució, creada als anys 60, , on els cubans encara fan llargues cues per menjar els seus gelats, encara per nosaltres, com a estrangers, no n'hi havia de cues. Varem disfrutar d'una plata de gelat per persona, entre molts cubans que també en menjaven; això si, aquell dia, tocava xocolata, i tots haviem de menjar el que tocava: cinc boles de gelat de xocolata per plata, centenars de persones menjant a la vegada plates amb cinc boles de gelat de xocolata!
I’ve waited some time to write about Cuba, firstly because the Morells were still there and secondly because I needed to digest the experience. I’ve been thinking about it for days and would like to explain what I thought about the island and our visit.
Our arrival in Havana was most pleasant. A taxi took us to the private house we were staying in and as we drove there the driver pointed out every factory and told us how well things were going after 40 years of Fidel.
When we arrived at the house, he charged us three times the amount on the meter and when we asked why, our question was met with silence. The house we stayed in for the first two nights was owned by a family of Galician origin who were very supportive of the system. One of them had been part of the ruling party at one time. I had a long chat with him about world politics and eventually, by this time it was late, about Cuban politics. According to him, everything is marvellous and the USA is a lying demon and that history is not exactly as Europeans have been led to believe it to be: all a little bit surreal.
Once we’d left the city visiting more or less tourist sights we came to feel we were only walking cash machines … prices rose as we were chatting to people..... friendliness always turned into asking for more money than originally agreed… all of a sudden the rules governing private houses changed as we were told anybody over 15 was considered an adult and so the girls couldn’t share a room with us ..... they insisted on us eating in but the food was always of a very poor quality and always the same .... how often can you eat dry chicken? ....more than once, having picked up a hitch-hiker, sometimes 80km from our destination, the hitcher (jinetero) would take us to a non-existent ‘mother-in-law’s’ house where they would offer very different services to the ones he’s promised e.g. smaller/fewer rooms or no bath. When we asked for an explanation or questioned something, we were met with a silence that all Cubans seemed able to create when necessary. Mute. No reply or they changed the subject, an art they have all mastered. They never engaged in any kind of real debate.
We wanted to avoid the more touristy routes, but travelling that way proved difficult and once we thought we’d mastered it we had a feeling we were being used again in one way or another. Services and infrastructures are really basic, if not totally abandoned. However, the few Cubans who were willing to talk about this claimed things were alright or that it was the fault of the embargo. Surprisingly, those with fewer services and little state support were the most defensive of the system. One of our hitchers, a young woman who lived in the north without electricity and who had to regularly travel for more than one hour without any public transport kept claiming that everything was going well.....unknowingly, perhaps, that Havana and other cities have had electricity for a long time and also a very basic public transport system.
The country is very interesting but it is disappointing that everyone has to live by breaking the rules and that they have created a class society, at times more extreme than in some capitalist countries. The military have more rights and drive better cars than anybody else, meanwhile most people have to wait for a ‘guagua’ (bus) to get to work packed in like sardines, if they’re lucky enough to have a job. Those that receive money from their relatives in Florida or anywhere else, can purchase in CUCs and live a middle-class lifestyle, whilst those without this outside support have to struggle to survive.
There are young people who are not starting families because they do not want their children to live this life, and because they cannot leave the island they get depressed waiting for an opportunity to escape, although they are very aware that that is not the best solution for their country and what they would really like to see is a change so they could have a better life in Cuba.
Before leaving, we returned to Havana and ended up staying in what was once a rich family’s home, now empty and looked after by a young man (guard). We were awake all night in this enormous, seemingly haunted house, lying on at least 40-year-old mattresses without any bedding, worrying if an inspector – this was an illegal stay, as they hadn’t declared it – or anyone else would come in. Early the next day, we left leaving a tip but of course not paying the full rate, as it was totally unacceptable – think Miss Haversham! We looked for another room for our last night and found one in an extraordinary woman’s flat. If only we’d found her on our arrival! Getting on now, she had lived the revolution and was still living in those times. She talked about her comrades, dancing in her combat boots, chatted a lot to us and even gave us a gift. That night we slept really well, although not for long as our plane was leaving very early in the morning, so at 4 in the morning we were having a coffee with her.
By the way, on our last night in Havana, we went to Copelia, the famous ice-cream palour opened in the 60s and a symbol of the revolution’s achievements, where Cubans still queue round the block to enjoy their ice-cream, although, as foreigners, we didn’t have to queue. We enjoyed a large ice-cream ‘ensalada’ along with all the other local customers; this comprised of chocolate ice-cream with chocolate ice-cream – 5 scoops of chocolate ice-cream, the only flavour available. Very nice if you really like chocolate ...
Friday, September 14, 2007
Machu Picchu
Ahir, després de tres dies caminant per les valls de Lares, varem arribar al Machu Picchu! Varem fer una completa visita guiada a les runes i després varem pujar al Picchu Jove per contemplar la ciutat Inca des de sobre... Va ser realment bonic, tant la caminata dels dies anteriors, passant per un coll a 4350 metres, com la visita i la contemplació a vista d'ocell. Demà penjaré una de les fotos, ja que ara la camera s'ha quedat sense bateria i ja és tard... Anar a les runes a les 6 del matí va valer la pena i després disfrutar d'un bany d'aigues termals a la una, abans d'agafar el tren per tornar a Cuzco també va ser una bona idea. Ara ens queden dos dies més al Cuzco abans de marxar cap al llac Titicaca...
Yestreday, after three dyas trecking the Lares Valleys, we arrivesd to Machu Picchu! We enmjoyed a comprehensive guided visit to the site and the climb to the Young Picchu, from we coulsçd see the whole site. It was a great experience. Both, the treck, which included walking above 4350 m, and the view of MP from above. Tomorrow I will add some pictures... as now the camera's batteries are dead. Catching the early bus at 5:30 AM to get to the site was worth the effort, as it was climing to the top of Aguas Calientes on the way back from the site to enjoy an open air hot bath, before catching the train back to Cuzco. Now we have another two days here before we move on. Lake Titicaca is our next stop.
Saturday, September 1, 2007
Finalment, el Cuzco, finally
Després d'aterrar a Lima i veure en Miguel a l'aeroport, cami de Barcelona, el seu cosí Oscar ens va guiar per la ciutat. Bé , primer ens va portar a casa seva o ens va oferir un bon suc de fruites i ens va deixar dutxar, després una passejada pel centre i el primer Ceviche autèntic. Al vespre ens va deixar a la parada de busos que van a Huancayo on només va marxar quan va estar ben segur que ningú ens atacaria i que no ens equivocariem de bus. Després de passar la nit en ruta, pujant fins a més de 4800 metres, varem arribar a Huancayo, a 3200 metres. Allà en Fernando, un germà del Miguel, ens esperava i ens va portar fins a casa els seus pares a Chupaca. Un altre esmorzar esplèndid i una dormideta abans d'explorar la zona... paissatges extraordinàris de les muntanyes voltant una vall que recorda una mica la Cerdanya, però molt més amunt. La mica de mal d'alçada la varem passar amb un brandy, aconsellats pels locals. Varem fer nit a l'acollidora casa dels Maraví-Poma i un altre dia de descoberta per la regió. Segon ceviche, aquest cop de truita de riu asalmonada, molt bo, i papas huancainas amb ají, entre altres delicateses. la hospitalitat que hem rebut la descrivien les noies com de reis (o presidents de la república, pel cas). Retorn a Lima en una altre bus nocturn, mal d'orelles per la baixada de nivell i altre cop dutxa i esmorzar a casa l'Oscar...ens havien adoptat!
Vol cap a Cuzco a migdia... això si és pilotar! Passejar un airbus entre les muntanyes andines i fer-lo girar entre els cims per aterrar en la pista més curta que hem trobat mai, entre les cases, ha sigut tota una experiència.
Avui hem visitat el centre d'acollida d'infants de les germanes Echevarria, on volem col.laborar... canalla ben petita, deixada allà, buscant un xic d'amor i algú que els vulgui "engreir" (mimar) com deia la Pilar. Demà tindrem la sort de passar el dia amb una colla d'aquests infants i potser fins pàssejar pel Cuzco amb ells i elles. Serem aquí els propers quinze dies, anant un xic més a poc a poc i disfrutant de la oportunitat que tenim, la gent i el lloc, i omplint el bolg de notes i fotos...
After landing in Lima we saw Miguel at the airport, en route to Barcelona, and his cousin Oscar, who took us back to his apartment for breakfast and showers before showing a little of Lima to us, authentic Ceviche included. That evening he left us at the bus station for Huancayo, once he was sure we would not be robbed or take the wrong bus. We travelled the whole night, reaching 4800 metres in altitude, to arrive in Huancayo, at 3200m early morning and be met by Fernando, Miguel's brother. He took us to Chupaca to his parents home and after another excellent breakfast and a sleep, we started to discover the area: amazing mountain landscapes around a wide valley which reminded us of La Cerdanya, only much higher. We cured any altitude sickness with brandy, following Fernando's advice. We spent the night at the Maraví-Poma's lovely home and continued our discovery of the area the next day. Second Ceviche, this time a trout one, delicious, and Huancayan potatoes (with aji included)were some of the delicacies we tried. We enjoyed great hospitality 'like kings' -said the girls. another night bus jourmey to Lima before another breakfast and shower at Oscar's where we have been treated like family. Midday flight to Cuzco, and what a flight. This was real flying, above the Andes, turning in between the high mountains to land on the shortest runway a large Airbus can land, in the middle of housing ... a skillful pilot!
Today we have visited the orphanage where we want to collaborate the next two weeks, run by the Echevearria sisters, housing very young boys and girls only asking for a bit of love and someone to cuddle them. Tomorrow we hope to be lucky enough to spend the day with some of them and maybe walk together around Cuzco. We will stay here for the next two weeks, slowing down a little and enjoying every bit of this opportunity we have, the people and the place and filling this blog with notes and pictures, we hope.
Sunday, August 26, 2007
Back from Cuba = Retorn de Cuba
Ja som a DF! We are back in Mexico! Aquest es un post curt per confirmar que hem sobreviscut Cuba i els cubans el Dean i volar en un Yak 42! This is a short post to confirm we have survived Cuba, the cubans, a Yak42 and hurricane Dean. We cannot write about Cuba in 5 minutes and today we started at 3 thirty AM, cold shower and 30 minutes wait for a taxi that never arrived, for a moment we thought we werent leaving Havana! Avui hem comencat el dia a les 3 i mitja del mati esperant un taxi per anar a l.aeroport que mai ha vingut, per un moment ens pensavem que no sortiriem mai de l.Havana!En cinc minuts no ho podem explicar tot... i ara estem destrossats... arribant a DF hem anat cap al museu de la frida Kalho i despres el de Diego Rivera, i ara a l'hostal a dutxar-nos (amb aigua calenta) i descansar, dema o mes tard ja us en farem cinc centims mes. We have already done a couple of museums and are in desperate need of a hot shower and a rest before we can go on. So more to come soon. More pictures and lots to say about Cuba now. Petons a tots i records dels Morell que encara son a l'illa!
Tuesday, August 14, 2007
Tempestes tropicals a la vista / Tropical storms coming
Sembla que la quarta tempesta tropical, que encara esta molt lluny, potser arribara a la costa de Mexic la setmana vinet, quan ja haurem marxat! Fins divendres no se sabra el recorregut possible,pero sembla que podria convertir-se en l'huraca Dean sobre la costa de Venezuela o sobre Puerto Rico.. massa prop de Cuba, on serem, pel nostre gust, pero millor que no pas aqui on som en cabanes de troncs mes que precaries, amb el sostre fet de fulles...
Potser haurioem de decidir no anar a Cuba i marxar cap a DF per evitar la pluja, pero hem esperat tant per anar-hi que ens hi arriscarem, i seguirem mirant els "partes" del servei de deteccio d'huracans.
as dad says, it seems the forecast has announced possible tropical storms and maybe hurricanes in the Caribbean. not good, although an experience never the less, I think. imagine: I survived hurricane Dean T-shirts... fantastic, a vintatge item...
anyway, lets hope the weather dosn't get too rough, it would spoil mum's tan and that would be a shame!
Monday, August 13, 2007
We're currently living the Bounty advert in a palm-thatched shack on the beach near Tulum, Mexico. Sand (white), sea (turquoise), sky (blue and stormy) and fantastic wildlife (both inside and outside the shack). We saw some huge lizards this morning. This truly is paradise!
However, paradise comes at a cost. It seems we're in some sort of tourist loop that we can't get off. Of course, if anywhere is worth visiting, everybody wants to visit it. This means prices here are on a par with Europe ... accommodation, restaurants, taxis .... but what you get in return is, more often than not, not worth it.
We're about to head off to the San Francisco de Asisi Shopping Mall (I thought he was the patron saint of animals .... dead, frozen ones stuffed in the freezer section, it seems) to stock up for tonight's supper and tomorrow's breakfast.
Com diu la Diana això és el paradís però amb preus de supermercat de la costa Brava... Un petit xoc després de viatjar per Guatemala, El Salvador i el sud de Mèxic, on les coses tenen uns altres preus. Aquí el servei és el mateix però es paga per estar en zona turística al sud de Cancún...
El mar és extraordinari i ja hem fet més d'un bany al Mar del Carib! Fins a les sis del matí i tot! Fora la cabana hem vist un parell de llargandaixos molt grossos, un pelicà ens sobrevola constantment i els crancs s'amaguen al nostre pas... Avui hem fet un "brunch" al poble... jo he pres sopa de gambes... boníssima!
Les runes de la cultura Maia ens han sorprès i impressionat (Tikal, Palenque i ara a Tulum) i de moment l'Ella i la BLanche ho han tolerat!
L'aigua freda de les dutxes ja ni es nota, i fins un s'oblida d'obrir l'aixeta de la calenta quan n'hi ha i tot... fa molta calor i humitat i per tant un xic d'aigua sempre va bé.
Tuesday, August 7, 2007
Flores - leaving Guatemala tomorrow
Gracies a en Lluis A. de BCN que va parlar be d'aquest lloc tant agradable... avui es el tercer dia que som aqui... hem visitat els monuments de Tikal, hem anat en barca pel llac i hem descansat molt i fins hem fet tota la bugada! Pujar a un dels temples de Tikal de matinada quan encara era negra nit i sentir despertar la jungla en silenci va ser impressionant. L'hostal de motxillers on som es ple de gent oberta i in teressant i l'Ella i la Blanche no paren... aixo ens ha donat a tots un xic d'espai, que sempre va be. Les dutxes fredes no semblen preocupar ningu i son forca mes refrescants que el llac, on l'aigua semblava una banyera. La gent es molt agradable i et fan sentir molt ben acollit... si ens haguessim de quedar a Guate, potser triariem Flores!
Dema marxem cap a Mexico (a les 5 del mati), cap a San Cristobal de las Casas, on esperem passar uns dies coneixent gent i zona abans d'anar cap a la platja a Tulum... i d'alla cap a l'Havana el dijous 16, on ens esperen els Morell i un cigar!
Thanks to LLuis A. from BCN who spoke so highly of this lovely place ... this is our third day here.... we've visited the Tikal Mayan ruins, been across the lake by boat (how else?) and relaxed ... we've even got laundry done! Climbing Temple V at Tikal in darkness and waiting for daylight whilst listening to the jungle wake up was extraordinary!
The backpackers hostel we're staying in is full of open, interesting people and Ella and Blanche haven't stopped ... and we've all enjoyed a bit of space. The cold showers are refreshing in this heat, much more so than the lake which was like swimming in a bath! The people are really friendly here and make you feel welcome ... if we had to stay in Guate this would be the place ...
Tomorrow we're off to Mexico(at 5am) to San Cristobal de las Casas where we'll spend a few days before heading off to Palenque, Tulum and the beach and then to Havana on the 16th where we meet the Morells to have a cigar!
Friday, August 3, 2007
Frijoles and tortillas
We are back in San Salvador at Lluis and Irma's (from SABES, http://www.aguasabes.org/index.html, check them out!). Today we have had a great day, visiting the mountains near Perquin and swimming in a pool in a river on the Honduras border - we even got a stamp at the immigration office at the customs house! The water was cold but worth the effort. To get there we went in two cars, the six of us plus Valentin, a French youth the girls chatted to ( or up...) at the Posada, plus two "guards" with large machetes, ex combat people from the ERP, that fought the 1980-1992 war! It helped making all of us feel safe and it seems the normal thing to do here. Yesterday we attended several town's fair functions, including a japanese display (?*!) and a charity supper. We also visited El Mozote, a town where early Dec 1981 the government army massacred 1000 civilians including at least 460 young children... One of the few that escaped it -as she was away visiting relatives- guided us and told us the story... she lost 6 brothers and sisters and 17 nephews and nieces that day! A very educative and specially emotional visit. This was not the only atrocity the army commited during the war, and now, it seems the country is being cheated of real democracy...
The last four days have been very emotional -robbery included- and reminded me of all the things we thought we knew when demonstrating in spain in support to various "revolutions" and guerrillas in south america in the late 70s and early 80s... We could not even imagine how tough it really was for all the locals and the things they had to do - and still have to a great extend- to survive and feed their families.
Tomorow we return to Guatemala and head off to Flores, for a few days rest, a visit to Tikkal and lots of clothes washing.
Tornem a ser a San Salvador, a casa d'en Lluis i la Irma(de SABES, http://www.aguasabes.org/index.html, mireu-ho!). Avui hem passat un altre gran dia, visitant les muntanyes prop de Perquin i banyant-nos en un riuet prop de la frontera amb Honduras -fins ens han segellat els passaports a la duana! L'aigua era molt freda pero ha valgut la pena. Per arribar-hi hem fet un comboi amb dos cotxes per portar-nos a nosaltres sis i a en Valenti, un noi frances que han conegut les noies a la , i dos guardes armats amb "matxets", ex combatents del ERP, que varen participar en la guerra del 80 al 92! Sembla que aqui aixo es forca normal... Ahir vbarem anar a la fira al poble i varem disfrutar de les presentacions japoneses (?*!) i un sopar en suport dels nens i nenes. Tambe varem visitar EL Mozote, un poble on la'exercit del govern va massacrar mes de 1000 persones els primers dies de desembre del 81, entre les que hi havia almenys 460 infants. Una noia del poble, que va escapar la massacre ja que era visitant uns parents a prop, - a ella li varen matar 6 germans i germanes i 17 nebots i nebodes- ens ha guiat pel poble i explicat com va anar. Ha sigut un dia molt instructiu i emotiu! Aquesta no va ser la unica atrocitat que va cometre l'exercit durant la guerra, i ara, sembla que els han mig enganyat fent veure que tenen un estat democratic...
Els darres 4 dies han estat molt emotius - robatori inclos- i m'han fet pensar en tot el que pensavem que sabiem a finals dels 70 i durant els 80 quan ens manifestaven recolzant les diverses revoltes i guerrilles a sud america... No podiem ni imaginar el que estaven passant la gent d'alguns d'aquests paisos i el que havien de fer per sobreviure i mantenir les seves families.
Dema retornem a Guatemala per anar a Flores, on a mes de visitar Tikkal, esperem reposar un xic i fer molta bugada!
Wednesday, August 1, 2007
several kilos lighter / ja hem perdut pes
Abans d'ahir varem arribar a el salvador, ahir varem viatjar pel pais veient parts molt interessants, pero tambe molt pobres. En LLuis, d'Agua Sabes, ens va portar a veure l feina que estan fent portant aigua apoblets i establint les minimes mesures de salubrityat... i portant salut a força gent... despres varem anar cap a Perquin, on estan de festa... passant força aventures ja que el pick up es va espatllar i ens varem quedar sense gasoil... a l'hora de mes calor. Despres de dormir en un hostal molt simpatic pero molt basic, aquest mati la Diana i en Manel hem anat a fer un passeig encantador, dues hores pel bosc, a mil metres d'alçada, veient paisatges i animalons... e al tornar uns joves que ens ensenyaven una pistola i un matchete ens han alleujerat dels dolars que portavem, el rellotge, la camera i les ulleres de sol... per sort quan ens han demanat les botes han vist que començava a fer massa estona que ens estaven assaltant i han fugit... aixo si, despres de tornar-os la tarja de la camera i la documentacio... un ensurt! ara hem fet la denuncia a la policia nacional salvadoreña i esperem disfrutar de les festes del poble, sense haver de preocupar-nos mes per la camera ni les ulleres de sol....
Two days ago we arrived in El Salvador, where Lluis, from Agua Sabes, has shown us around the country and some of the projects they are working on bringing water to small villages, thus making their lives better and much healthier. Yesterday evening we finally arrived in Perquin, after breaking down and running out of petrol first.... This is a small moutain village at 1000m where they are celebrating the local fiestas... this morning Diana and Manel went out for a walk into the forest to enjoy butterflies and other animals as well as the amazing views. On the return journey we were held up by two youths, one with a gun and the other wielding a machete. They relieved us of our dollars - about 130- and Diana's camera and watch and Manel's sunglasses. We have now recovered from the ordeal and after making a police report with a laughing policeman, who was very concerned, we hope to enjoy the town's fiestas and even dance a little in the square...
Friday, July 27, 2007
Making Garcia smile
First encounters with central America. Our arrival yesterday in Guatemala city at night, all four of us exhausted from the long journey from London. The ladies from the hostel came to pick us up at the airport and one of them took us on a kind of tour round the city. This morning, after a fab breakfast of scrambled eggs with tomato and onion, "frijoles" (mushed up beans), and fried bannanas, we went to discover some of the city, visiting the local market, an incredible place full of new kinds of food we had never seen. Everybody lovely and willing to help. Not one single tourist. Blanche and I felt like we were constantly being watched by the locals, either because we're outsiders or because of our large, ugly boots (we are now wearing flip-flops and feel much more at home).
After wandering round Guatemala, having stopped for a drink in a bag, something very original, we got a ride to Antigua, the "Sitges" of Guatemala (packed with tourists...but not by the sea). We were also given a tour around Antigua in her old pick-up - all the streets are cobbled. The hotel we're staying at is an old Lutheran convent. Very tranquil with the rooms going off a central courtyard. Had lunch in a small cheap bar, delicious.
The title of this entry is dedicated to the very unsmiling immigration officer who grudgingly, it seemed, let us into Miami, only smirking slightly when making a joke about my name, Ella.
Primera trobada amb América central. La nostra arribada ahir a Guatemala de nit, tots quatre cansadissims del llarg viatge des de Londres. Les dones de l'hostal ens van venir a buscar i una d'elles ens va portar en una mena de tour per la ciutat. Aquest matí, després d'un increïble esmorzar de ous estrellats amb toaquet i ceba, frijoles (mongetes aixefades), i platan fregit, hem anat a descobrir una mica la ciutat, visitant el mercat central, un lloc fascinant ple de menjars i coses que no haviem vist mai. Tothom encantador i disposat a ajudar. Ni un turista. La Blanche i jo ens sentiem observades pels locals, o perqué som de fora o per les nostres botes horribles (ara que portem xancletes ens sentim molt més a gust).
Després de la passejada per Guatemala, havent parat per pendre una beguda dins d'una bossa, algo molt original, ens han porat a Antigua, el "Sitges" de Guatemala, absolutament ple de turistes. També ens han fet un tour d'aquesta ciutat en el seu pick-up. L'hotel on ens quedem és un antic convent luterá. Molt tranquil amb les habitacions que surten d'un pati interior. Hem dinat a un bar barat i petit. Deliciós.
(perdoneu els accents del revés. no hi ha d'oberts)
el títol d'aquesta entrada la dedico al poc somrient oficial de immigració que amb poques ganes, semblava, ens va deixar entrar a Miami, només mostrant una mica d'alegria i simpatia al moment de fer una broma am el meu nom, Ella.
ella xxxxxx
Monday, July 23, 2007
Day One: the adventure begins / Primer Dia: comença l'aventura
Finally made it to Pimlico, despite London Undeground's best efforts to stop us... This helped us realize we are carrying far too much. We have now two days to socialise with friends and regain the use of our shoulders... We must leave about 25 kg behind with someone (kind) before we leave for Guatemala.
The girls have already disappeared off into London's nightlife with Dagmar and Laura... as they have not seen each other for at least 3 days!
For the first time in weeks we feel we can stop without leaving anything urgent to be done, so we started this blog.
Finalment hem arribat a Pimlico, malgrat els esforços del metro de Londres per impedir-ho. Això però, ens ha fet veure que portem massa equipatge. Ara tenim dos dies per veure amics i recuperar l'ús de les espatlles... Hem de deixar almenys 25 kg amb algún amic (que ens estimi) abans de marxar cap a Guatemala.
Les nenes ja han desaparegut en la vida nocturna de Londres, amb la Laura i la Dagmar, ja que feia almenys 3 dies que no es veien!
Per primer cop en setmanes ens sembla que podem relaxar-nos sense deixar res urgent per fer, així que hem començat aquest blog.
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